€11,000
VERGER FRÈRES: A RETRO DIAMOND BRACELET, CIRCA 1945-50 Of openwork scrolled design, composed of palmette-shaped motifs of bi-coloured design, each terminal enhanced with brilliant-cut diamonds, to fluted connectors, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 6.50cts total, with maker's mark 'VF' for Verger Frères, French export mark, length 17.2cm Verger Frères was founded in Paris in 1872 by Ferdinand Verger, who quickly gained fame for his superb jewellery, clocks, and watches. Ferdinand began his apprenticeship at just 11 years old with the esteemed Parisian watchmaker Lépine. After serving in the Franco-Prussian War and working in London, he returned to Paris and started his own business. Initially focusing on women’s watches, he built a strong partnership with Vacheron Constantin, laying the foundation for his success. By 1896, Ferdinand had registered his maker's mark, FV. In 1911, his sons Georges and Henri joined the business, prompting a name change to Verger Frères and the introduction of a new mark, VF. This new chapter heralded a period of significant growth and creativity. The firm became known for its close collaborations with top artisans of the era, including Lalique and Makovsky, and for pioneering techniques. Notably, they were one of the two Parisian houses to produce the famous “mysterious clocks.” Verger Frères earned the title of the ‘jeweller’s jeweller’ because they supplied many top jewellery firms. Unusually for the time, they did not create pieces based on clients’ designs but instead sold their own original designs to retailers. Their designs, which drew inspiration from the synthesis of Art Nouveau and Art Deco, continue to inspire creativity today. During the 1920s and 30s, Verger Frères was at its peak. Their jewellery and watches were highly sought after by prestigious names like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, and Bulgari. They offered exclusivity to their clients and showcased unparalleled craftsmanship. In Hollywood, Verger Frères pieces were worn by early film stars such as Joan Crawford, Katharine Hepburn, Greta Garbo, and Mae West. What set Verger Frères apart was their commitment to in-house production. They employed over 200 skilled craftsmen, including goldsmiths, enamellers, engravers, gem cutters, and watchmakers, ensuring high-quality work and meticulous designs. Throughout the 1940s and 50s, the company remained family-owned and continued to produce intricate designs using the finest gems. Their pieces, often in gem-set 18ct yellow gold with bold scrolling profiles, reflected the prevailing fashion of the time. Today, Verger Frères is celebrated for its elegance and craftsmanship. While many collectors appreciate their pieces, some remain less recognised due to the emphasis on the retailer’s name, making Verger Frères even more sought after. The company is now part of Atelier Bouder, which has carefully restored the brand’s heritage, using old drawings and models to recreate famous pieces while continuing to produce both classic and new designs.
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