CARTIER: A RARE AND COLLECTIBLE LAPIS LAZULI, TURQUOISE AND ...

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€15,000 - €20,000

CARTIER: A RARE AND COLLECTIBLE LAPIS LAZULI, TURQUOISE AND DIAMOND NOVELTY CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1945 The stylised scarab, with carved lapis lazuli body, a turquoise cabochon head, highlighted with single-cut diamond eyes and rose-cut feet at the front, mounted in 18K gold and platinum, signed Cartier Paris, with maker's mark, French assay marks, with maker's case, length 2.7cm An identical brooch is illustrated, page 164, in the catalogue of the Cartier exhibition, L'Art de Cartier at the Musée du Petit Palais between October 1989-January 1990, by Hans Nadelhoffer. The discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 sparked a cultural phenomenon that extended far beyond archaeology. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, the Egyptian Revival style swept across the decorative arts, leaving its mark on everything from ceramics and prints to furniture and, most strikingly, jewellery. Museums in Cairo and touring exhibitions in London and Paris further solidified the global fascination, showcasing the dynamic dialogue between age-old myths and contemporary design. The era’s fascination with ancient Egypt found a perfect partner in the materials and aesthetics of Art Deco: platinum, diamonds, onyx, and vibrant enamel brought ancient motifs into the modern age. Designers reimagined scarabs, sphinxes, lotuses, and hieroglyphs through the lens of contemporary luxury, resulting in pieces that were at once reverent and boldly forward-looking. Among the jewellers of the time, Cartier distinguished itself not merely by mimicking Egyptian symbols but by engaging directly with history. Louis Cartier developed a personal passion for Egyptian antiquity, travelling and acquiring genuine archaeological objects from dealers who handled finds from ongoing excavations. Rather than replicate ancient designs, Cartier incorporated these authentic artifacts such as scarabs, faience fragments, and deity heads into his own creations, elevating them with platinum and diamonds to craft sophisticated Art Deco jewels that were both historically rooted and stylistically avant-garde. This approach set Cartier apart, offering clients pieces that were not just inspired by the past but built from it. Egyptian-inspired jewellery is defined by its rich symbolism and vibrant palette. Gold, regarded as the skin of the gods, and silver, seen as divine bone, were used alongside vivid lapis lazuli, symbolising the intense, sky-like blue hair of the deities. Turquoise and green hues evoked the protective qualities of water and the Mediterranean. Jewellers embraced these colours and symbols, often incorporating amulets like the scarab, which in ancient mythology was observed pushing its ball in the desert, as a metaphor for the sun’s journey at dawn and a symbol of rebirth, cosmic order, good luck, and fortune. With the advent of global conflict, significant material shortages and restrictions rapidly transformed the landscape of jewellery production. The scarcity of platinum and diamonds forced designers to adopt innovative solutions without sacrificing the aesthetic values of their style. In response, jewellers began experimenting with advanced alloys and a wider array of semi-precious stones, reinterpreting traditional motifs with alternative materials that mimicked the allure of their predecessors. These necessary adaptations led to creative breakthroughs, ensuring that the symbolic richness and visual impact of their creations endured even in times of adversity. Even after the height of its popularity at the beginning of the 19th century, Egyptomania continued to resonate through popular culture. The mid-to-late 20th century saw waves of renewed interest thanks to cinema, particularly Hollywood films of the 1960s through the 1980s featuring mummies, curses, and pharaohs. These narratives reignited public fascination with Egypt’s mystique, sustaining its influence in both fashion and fine jewellery. From screen to studio, the mythos of ancient Egypt remained a rich source of inspiration and proving that, even decades later, its magic still had the power to captivate and create.