PIERRE STERLÉ: A RARE DIAMOND RING, CIRCA 1960 Of openwork ...

Estimate

€15,000 - €20,000

PIERRE STERLÉ: A RARE DIAMOND RING, CIRCA 1960 Of openwork dome design, the brilliant-cut diamond within a baguette-cut diamond surround, raised on a ropetwist mount, mounted in platinum, remaining diamonds approximately 1.00ct total, signed Sterlé Paris, with maker's mark for Sterlé (Opera), with maker's case, French assay mark, ring size J Accompanied with a photocopy of its insurance valuation from Pierre Sterlé, stating that the principal diamond is 2.13cts, mounted on platinum, dated February 9th 1965. Sterlé was born in 1905 to a family of financiers. After his father died in World War I, he was raised by his uncle, who was a jeweller, and introduced him to the world of gemstones and precious metals. By 1934, Sterlé had established his own workshop in Paris. Unlike many of his contemporaries, he refused to open a traditional boutique. Instead, he preferred the privacy of an upstairs atelier at 43 Avenue de l'Opéra, where he designed exclusively for the elite: royalty, aristocrats, and celebrities who valued rarity over convention. He also lent his talent to esteemed houses such as Boucheron, Chaumet, Ostertag, and Puiforcat before fully dedicating himself to his own masterpieces. What set Sterlé apart was his unparalleled ability to manipulate gold, bending it to his artistic will. His jewels exuded an ethereal lightness, as if caught in mid-motion: a bird in flight, a tassel swaying, a ribbon floating on the breeze. Inspired by Art Nouveau and his deep love of nature, he captured the organic world with breathtaking precision. His signature techniques became legendary. The 'Fil d'Ange' (Angel's Thread) effect, was a technique perfected over seven years, where fine gold was woven like chain mail, giving it an astonishing fluidity, almost textile-like appearance.  Inspired by an ancient Egyptian bracelet he once saw in Cairo, Sterlé recreated its delicate beauty using a staggering 60 meters of twisted gold wire and over 6,000 solder points. He also mastered the art of transforming gold into braids, cords, tassels, fringes, and basket weaves, making the metal appear as supple as silk. His mobile settings allowed gemstones to shimmer and catch the light in new ways, bringing each piece to life with the wearer’s every movement. His love of nature found further expression in his whimsical creations, especially his iconic bird designs, which remain among the most coveted jewellery pieces today. Between 1965 and 1974, he crafted fantastical characters, including a bandit, an archer, a joker, and a falconer, each adorned with mother-of-pearl or hardstone busts meticulously sculpted by the renowned Robert Lemoine. Sterlé’s talent did not go unnoticed. Publicly celebrated as the “couturier of jewellery,” he won the prestigious De Beers International Diamond Award three years in a row (1953–1955), cementing his reputation as a master of his craft. Yet, despite his artistic genius, financial difficulties eventually led to the closure of his firm in 1976. Chaumet acquired both his stock and expertise, hiring him as an artistic advisor. He passed away in Paris in 1978, leaving behind a legacy of technical innovation and exquisite beauty.