€18,000 - €22,000
A COLLECTIBLE DIAMOND JARRETIÈRE BRACELET, BY GEORGES LENFANT, CIRCA 1960 Designed as a stylised belt of textured gold mesh linking, the buckle highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold and platinum, partial maker's mark for Georges Lenfant, French assay marks, length 25.4cm (first hole 21.3cm, second hole 19.5cm) Georges Lenfant was born into the world of French jewellery design, and he quickly became a master of his trade. Growing up, he undertook several apprenticeships before studying jewellery in Paris and abroad. In 1900, Georges set up his own workshop at 47 rue des Petits-Champs, minutes away from his patrons at the Place Vendome and Rue de la Paix. He was well established by 1903 and was listed in a publication of the Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfevrerie of that year. His creative designs and flawless execution put him in demand with the larger jewellery houses and, in a bid not to be forgotten behind infamous names such as Cartier, Mellerio dits Meller and Van Cleef & Arpels, Georges established a maker’s mark in 1909 and proceeded to stamp each piece before it lefts his workshop. In 1915, Georges was joined in the firm by his son Jacques who, at the age of just eleven, was eager to learn the art of jewellery. His keen interest would stand by him as, in time, Jacques would take over the business and create some of Georges Lenfant’s most memorable designs. Neither Georges nor Jacques shied away from collaboration and the Georges Lenfant company had been working with Sandoz for many years when, in 1927, Gustave-Roger Sandoz sold his business to Georges under the condition that his son, Gerard Sandoz, remained as artistic director. Between them, they created striking examples of Art Moderne jewellery, their work infused with bold lines, bright colours and contrasting shapes. Following the end of WWII, Lenfant took over Verger Freres. This heralded a new collaboration with Vacheron Constantin, who had been working with Verger Freres for some time. Constantin and Lenfant busied themselves with watch design and, together, they created pieces for Hermes. The 1960s and 70s saw Jacques at the helm of Georges Lenfant and his passion for goldsmithing led to beautiful textured pieces that celebrated the versatility of the metal. In the current lot, designed for Jean Ete, several techniques are utilised to depict the owl’s form, each method carefully chosen to suit a different part of the bird. Jacques’ captivation by the different shapes and textures that could be wrought with gold led to his signature chain pieces as he was fascinated by how the interlocking links could be arranged into a myriad of patterns. Over three thousand pieces were inspired by the chain motif and are now some of Georges Lenfant’s most notable creations. In 2003, Georges Lenfant was bought by Bouder and ceased to operate. However, pieces bearing the Lenfant mark continue to prove popular, their numerous collaborations meaning that there is a design to suit everyone.
Diamonds: approx. 2.00cts total, unable to assess colour due to yellow mount, estimated clarity VS Partial maker's mark - G + Dice visible for Georges Lenfant Eagle's head and dog's head for French 18K gold and platinum Clasp secure Width of strap: 2cm Minor signs of wear, overall in good condition Total gross weight approx. 98.6g
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