CARTIER, ATTRIBUTED TO: A RARE 'TUTTI FRUTTI' GEM-SET & DIAM...

Hammer

€16,000

CARTIER, ATTRIBUTED TO: A RARE 'TUTTI FRUTTI' GEM-SET & DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1930

Of shield shape, the central carved sapphire foliate motif, within emerald bead borders, to an old European and single-cut diamond surround accented with baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18K gold, unsigned, French import marks, length 3cm, width 2.4cm

Accompanied with a letter of expertise, from IAJA (The International Antique Jewellers Association) based in Paris, stating that the brooch is by Cartier New York, circa 1930. Report no. Xp1527 - 040124

Olivier Bachet is a distinguished jewellery consultant and expert, and a member of the Compagnie Nationale des Experts. Initially an antique art dealer, he has spent the past 20 years specialising in vintage Cartier jewels. He authored Cartier, Exceptional Objects with Alain Cartier and In The Beginning Was The Line: Cartier Art Deco Drawings 1910-1930. His extensive expertise has established him as an internationally recognised specialist on vintage Cartier jewellery.

With its origins in the Art Deco designs of the 1920s, Cartier's 'Tutti Frutti' style has become one of the most sought-after jewellery motifs to this day. The design is a distinct multicultural fusion of Eastern and Western influences. By combining colourful Indian carved stones with the period’s monochromatic trends, Cartier upheld their motto: "never copy, always create."

The term ‘Tutti Frutti’ was coined in the 1970s and copyrighted by Cartier in 1989. Its roots trace back to 1901, when Queen Alexandra of the United Kingdom commissioned Pierre Cartier to create a necklace to complement her colourful Indian gowns. This piece, adorned with rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, was a foundational influence for Cartier’s 'Tutti Frutti' jewellery.

Jacques Cartier drew further inspiration during his 1911 trip to India for the Delhi Durbar, where he encountered Maharajas adorned in vibrant jewels. Captivated by their ornamentation, Cartier sourced the most exquisite gems and antiquities to be sold from the London branch to the European elite.

By 1925, “Art Deco” was officially recognized at the Paris Exposition des Art Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The Cartier brothers emerged as trendsetters; their designs blending Western clean lines with Eastern carved gems and colourful beads were heralded as a celebration of global cultures and creativity.

Initially referred to as the “foliage” line or “pierres de couleur,” these pieces featured carvings of flowers and leaves, with many stones varying in quality and colours. Their popularity surged after the Crash of 1929, signalling the public’s desire for vibrancy and novelty.

Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, 'Tutti Frutti' designs flourished, inspiring jewellers across Europe and America. Notable figures like Daisy Fellowes commissioned the exquisite “Collier Hindou” necklace in 1936, while Marjorie Merriweather Post requested a pendant with Mughal emeralds. These commissions elevated the style and its popular legacy further.

As World War II approached, jewellery design shifted from the delicacy of Art Deco to the boldness of the Retro period. Nevertheless, Cartier's timeless 'Tutti Frutti' creations endure, remaining coveted by collectors today. Each piece tells a story of cultural fusion and artistic innovation, embodying the prestige of the iconic Cartier house.