CARTIER: A DIAMOND AND EMERALD 'PANTHÈRE' DRESS RING, FRENCH...

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€18,000 - €22,000

CARTIER: A DIAMOND AND EMERALD 'PANTHÈRE' DRESS RING, FRENCH

The sprung ring designed as a panther, the head pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, the nose with onyx detailing, mounted in 18K gold, signed Cartier, numbered, with maker's mark 'Sté HV' for Abysse Hamard Vitau, French assay mark, ring size M (EU size stamped 52)

The twentieth century saw a profound sociological shift as gender roles were redefined, particularly in the context of two World Wars. Women stepped into roles once reserved for men, asserting their independence and driving progress toward gender equality, including the right to vote. This upheaval laid the foundation for the rise of the 'modern woman’—one defined by her autonomy, versatility, and strength. It was within this context of social change that Cartier distinguished itself as a leader in the world of fine jewellery, creating designs that celebrated the spirit of the modern woman.

Central to Cartier's vision was the iconic Panthère motif, a symbol of both elegance and resilience. The panther's allure first appeared in Cartier’s interior designs, where its distinctive spots adorned soft furnishings. By 1914, the motif had transitioned to fashion, with artist George Barbier capturing the panther in an image for an upcoming exhibition. His illustration of a regal, goddess-like figure with a panther at her feet became a defining image, setting the stage for a new era of bolder designs.

In 1913, Jeanne Toussaint was appointed Director of Bags, Accessories, and Objects at Cartier. A visionary with an innate sense of style, she quickly rose through the ranks, earning the affectionate nickname “La Panthère” for her sharp intellect and rebellious spirit. Her first Cartier panther piece—a cigarette case featuring a leopard nestled among trees—was designed especially for her. Toussaint’s deep connection to the panther motif grew, and over time, she transformed it into a symbol of both strength and beauty.

After mentoring Toussaint for two decades, Cartier entrusted her with the role of Creative Director of Jewellery, a progressive move for the time. This decision underscored Cartier’s commitment to modernity and confidence in "La Panthère." Working with designer Peter Lemarchand, Toussaint brought her emblematic animal to life; in 1935, the first three-dimensional panther piece was created, designed as a ring featuring a central ruby and panther heads on either side.

The legacy of the Cartier panther was secured when the Duke of Windsor commissioned a stunning brooch for his wife, Wallis Simpson. The piece, which featured a panther perched atop a dazzling 116.74-carat emerald, cemented the motif’s place in high fashion. Wallis Simpson, a devoted patron of Cartier, would go on to acquire several more pieces, including a 1952 panther bracelet, considered one of the house's finest creations.

Throughout her tenure, Toussaint continually reinvented the panther, introducing new forms and expressions—earrings, bangles, and brooches—captivating collectors and admirer alike. When she retired in 1970, her legacy as a trailblazer in jewellery design was firmly established. Today, the Panthère collection remains a cornerstone of Cartier's identity, its timeless elegance and powerful symbolism continuing to resonate with customers around the world, a tribute to the enduring spirit of modern femininity.