RENÉ BOIVIN: A RARE PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL PENDENT EARCLIPS ...

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€8,000 - €10,000

RENÉ BOIVIN: A RARE PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL PENDENT EARCLIPS Each designed as a cluster of grapes, with cultured pearls of cream tint, suspended from a polished vine leaf surmount, mounted 18K gold, signed René Boivin, with maker's mark 'RB' for René Boivin, French assay marks, length 5cm René Boivin (1864–1917) began his jewellery career at seventeen, following his elder brother Victor’s footsteps by working first as a goldsmith’s apprentice and taking drawing lessons at a local art school. Having refined his skills in several workshops, he soon earned a reputation as a talented draughtsman, designer and engraver. By 1890, René was ready to start his own enterprise. He acquired his first workshop in Paris, equipping it with all the necessary tools and skilled craftsmen. A few years later, he moved to new premises on the rue de Turbigo and married Jeanne Poirot, sister of the esteemed French fashion designer Paul Poiret. The firm’s reputation grew rapidly by word of mouth, thanks to its meticulously crafted pieces and commissions from jewellers such as Mellerio and Boucheron. Though proficient in both modern and classical design, René developed a keen interest in naturalism; his solid background in botany led him to create life-like floral motifs. While Art Nouveau’s flowing curves were fashionable at the time, the Boivin workshop chose a more unconventional path to appeal to a more discerning clientele. Boivin’s wife Jeanne had already been deeply involved in the business, and after René’s untimely death in 1917, she took full control of Maison Boivin. Though she had not planned a career in jewellery, she quickly adapted to managing both the creative and financial aspects of the business. Jeanne not only upheld René’s legacy, but she also steered the firm through challenging post-war years, leading a workshop of around twenty artisans and establishing it as the only major jewellery house of its time run by women. Jeanne possessed a keen eye for talent. In 1919, she recruited Suzanne Vuillerme, later known as Suzanne Belperron, a new graduate from the Besançon Beaux-Arts Academy. Belperron’s innovative use of coloured stones, texture, and predominantly 18K yellow gold set her work apart from the prevailing Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Her collaboration with Jeanne brought renewed energy to the firm throughout the 1920s. In 1931, Belperron left to form a partnership with Bernard Herz, paving the way for Juliette Moutard to join the firm. Moutard was an experienced designer having worked at Verger Frères and designed for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. She began her long-standing association with Maison Boivin in 1933. Under Jeanne’s guidance, Juliette flourished. She introduced bold, imaginative designs that embraced organic, feminine lines over rigid Art Deco forms. Jeanne further recognised Juliette’s talent by entrusting her with drawing duties for both herself and her daughter Germaine, who had recently joined the business. The close collaboration between Jeanne, Germaine, and Juliette created a unified creative force, often making it hard to pinpoint the origin of any single design. The firm’s approach was as distinctive as its jewellery. Clients were rarely given cost estimates or delivery dates, and customer gemstones or design ideas were only accepted for particularly significant patrons, such as the Duchess of Windsor and Millicent Rogers. Madame Boivin was so confident in her workshop’s output that she famously declared, “my style is my signature”, believing the pieces spoke for themselves. Many clients appreciated this unconventional method, knowing each design was unique, with few repeats and even fewer exact copies. Juliette Moutard dedicated her entire career to Maison Boivin, remaining at the firm even after Madame Boivin retired in 1954 and passed away five years later, leaving Germaine in charge. Together, Moutard and Germaine maintained the firm’s creative integrity and commitment to originality. Moutard retired in 1970 but stayed connected to the firm until her death in 1990. The family sold the jewellery house to their diamond supplier Mr. Perrier, and in 1967 Jacques Bernard took over, with a former Cartier workshop manager later assuming ownership. The 1980s brought revived interest in the Boivin Maison, first led by Marie-Caroline de Brosses and subsequently by Sylvie Vilein. The introduction of fresh, new creations that remained true to the Boivin style, attracting clients such as Hélène Rochas and the Aga Khan. The Asprey Group, acquired the firm before Nathalie Choay purchased it in 1999 to preserve its heritage and archives. Now overseen by Thomas Torroni-Levene, these documents will form the basis of a definitive book scheduled for publication this year, one that aims to record the complete history of René Boivin and highlight the contributions of each designer along the way.