AN 18K GOLD NECKLACE, BRACELET, BROOCH AND EARCLIPS EN SUITE...

Hammer

€20,000

AN 18K GOLD NECKLACE, BRACELET, BROOCH AND EARCLIPS EN SUITE, BY CHAUMET, CIRCA 1970 Each composed of openwork square and round links of abstract design, with polished and matt finish, earclips of square-design, each in 18K gold, each signed Chaumet, with maker’s mark 'JC' for Joseph Chaumet, French assay marks, with maker's pouch, necklace length 66.5cm, bracelet length 18.3cm, brooch length 8.7cm, width 6.2cmm, ear clips length 3.2cm (brooch can be worn as the pendant of the necklace) Established in 1780 by Marie-Étienne Nitot, Chaumet evolved into Europe's premier jeweller under his skilful craftsmanship. Successive generations, including François-Regnault Nitot and Joseph Chaumet, furthered the legacy, pioneering opulent designs and expanding clientele to include royalty. Embracing Art Deco and the Roaring Twenties, Chaumet's creations evolved with fashion while maintaining a blend of tradition and modernism, captivating a global audience. Continuing the legacy of excellence, Chaumet's esteemed designers and jewellers, including the likes of Pierre Sterlé and René Morin, upheld the Maison's iconic style while infusing it with a contemporary twist. The 1970s epitomised a time of experimentation and liberation. Across music, politics, fashion, ideals, and space exploration, every realm offered avenues for fresh encounters. Embracing change and exploring uncharted territories required the emergence of new identities, artisans, and visionary thinkers pioneering innovation. These trailblazers significantly influenced the trajectory of jewellery history, they contributed to pivotal moments through advancements in technique, the introduction of novel aesthetics, and the embrace of liberated concepts. In a bold move that reshaped the landscape of jewellery, Chaumet introduced the Arcade, a revolutionary store concept, in 1970, redefining the very essence of luxury shopping. Amidst whispers in the press, Chaumet entertained the idea of crafting a novel sales unit devoted to jewellery and contemporary living. The Chaumet brothers entrusted Agence Bernard Cognard with the task of envisioning this modern realm. The interior designer faced the challenge of giving the Arcade its own architectural identity separates from the historic boutique. They strategically placed a central showcase pillar in one of the twin arcades, creating an open space reminiscent of an art gallery. Black and Orly blond anodized aluminium materials contrasted with Place Vendôme's traditional aesthetics, while frameless windows added an ethereal touch. Inside, the Arcade was designed as a sanctuary for a modern lifestyle, with elements like beige sofas and Chinese lacquer accents blending in hues of rye, amber, and black. Inspired by decades design, the space was engineered for adaptability, with ceiling-mounted rails and wheeled display units. The Arcade symbolized a global transformation during a crucial period in the Maison’s history and the realm of French jewellery craftsmanship. Its design reflected innovative approaches to presenting, selling, and purchasing jewellery, aligning seamlessly with the evolving lifestyle of the 1970s. Despite the coordination of traditional boutiques alongside the Arcade, both units featured their collections in unified sales catalogues. What may appear counterintuitive by contemporary standards was viewed differently in that era. The Arcade spearheaded future advancements for Chaumet and other leading jewellery houses, showcasing iconic collections like Liens and Labyrinthe. At the core of this progressive approach lay experimentation, artisans were granted full creative autonomy, both within the design studio and workshop. This freedom extended to the extent that they appropriated the use of gold nuggets, dubbing their finishing technique the Arcade polish. Gold underwent various treatments, including hammering, polishing, texturing, brushing, and assuming organic forms, moulding itself to the wearer's skin. These creations, blurring the boundaries between traditional jewellery and art, challenged conventions through their innovative designs. The advertising for the Arcade embodied dynamic design, strategically crafted to ward off monotony. This evolution extended beyond mere sales catalogues, encompassing architectural concepts, graphic branding, and the structural organization of boutiques into separate sections such as Chaumet High Jewellery, the Chaumet Arcade, and the enduring Chaumet watches. The “Labyrinthe” collection, made of transformable necklace, bracelet, pendant and brooch. It was made between 1970 and 1980 and sold at l’Arcade.

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Some small areas of gold oxidisation Clasp on necklace and bracelet closes securely Gross weight of necklace approx. 103g Gross weight of bracelet approx. 30g Gross weight of brooch approx. 45g Gross weight of ear clips approx. 28g Normal signs of wear, overall in good condition Total gross weight approx. 206g